It turned out better than I had expected and I am so excited to share the step-by-step process so you can create your own headboard!
First, you'll need tools:
- circular saw
- drill
- 1 1/4" wood screws
- staple gun (with staples)
- plywood
- foam
- batting
- (1) 2X4
- nailhead trim
- your choice of fabric
To start, using the circular saw, you'll need to cut the plywood to what ever size you want your headboard to be. Generally, a headboard is a few inches wider than your bed and as tall as you like. I (well, actually, my dad) cut the plywood down to 5 feet wide by 3.5 feet tall.
Next, we cut the 2x4 (which comes in a 8' length) in half for (2) 4' pieces (legs). Each leg was then attached to the cut plywood with the wood screws 6" from the top. Standing from ground up, by headboard stood about 4.5 feet, exposing 3 feet of plywood above the mattress when in place.
Remember, depending on the size of your bed and the space it's in, you don't want your headboard to be too dominating or then it will stand out awkwardly.
Once the legs are attached to the plywood piece, lay out your fabric, face down, on a flat surface-remembering to leave at least 6" of excess fabric all the way around.
Next, lay out the batting (cut an inch or 2 smaller than the fabric) on the fabric, followed by a piece of foam cut exactly the size of your plywood.
Lastly, layer the plywood (face down with legs up) on top of the other 3 layers.
At this point you should end up with 4 layers: fabric, batting, foam, plywood. Once all layers are in place, grab your staple gun because it's time to start fastening the fabric into place.
Staring at the top center of the plywood, fold the fabric and batting over and fasten with a staple every 3 or 4 inches, remembering to keep the fabric taught and wrinkle free.
Cut a 'V' in the fabric at each corner (to reduce excess fabric bunching) and fasten with staples. Continue down each side the plywood until you reach the bottom.
Fastening the fabric at the bottom can me a little tricky. You will need to cut the fabric around the areas where the legs are attached to the plywood. It is extremely important at this point, to be sure that the fabric is as taught and smoothed out as possible, to prevent visible wrinkles on the front side of your headboard.
Once your last staple is in place, flip the headboard over, face-up.
At this point, you need to decide what type of design you want across the front of your headboard with the nail head trim. I chose to simply create a frame, about 2 inches in from outer edge. *Be sure to mark your line evenly all the way around the headboard before applying the nail trim, to ensure a straight level line* I used clear fishing twine as a guide for my trim.
{here you can see a thin line of fishing twine we used as the guide for the trim}
Now that you have your trim line framed out, you can begin applying the nail head trim. Nailhead trim comes on a 10 yard roll (about 30 feet) with 5 solid (faux) studs between every open stud. Also included are the upholstery tacks needed to fasten the trim to you project surface.
Note: should your trim happen to overlap at the corners, you can drive a single tack through 2 open holes to fix into place.
Now you're almost there...Once you've applied the trim all the way around the perimeter of the headboard, remove the fishing twine (or whatever material you used to mark your lines) and you're DONE!
TADAAAAAA!!
{photos courtesy of K. Sillivan- Lola Inspired }
(photos courtesy of K. Sillivan- Lola Inspired }
To view more photos, see this post from Lola Inspired! And a HUGE THANK YOU goes out to my dad for his carpentry skills and help with my DIY headboard project!
Now it's your turn. Channel your inner DIYer to create an amazing headboard of your own!
xoxo,
Mrs. V!ck
Great job!!!!
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